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¡á About the Publication

 

Magazine B is an ad-free monthly publication that dedicates each issue to one well-balanced brand unearthed from around the globe. The magazine introduces the brand¡¯s hidden stories, as well as its sensibility and culture, and is an easy but also serious read for anyone with an interest in brands.

 

 

¡á About the Issue

 

Welcome to the 96th issue of B.

 

Back in 2018, when B revisited Seoul, the capital city of Korea, to put out a second edition, we talked about what city would be the best for the city issue besides Seoul. Many of our editors—including me—thought of Busan, the second largest city in Korea, and Jejudo Island for its breathtaking natural landscapes. Five years later, we wound up doing an issue that features Busan. Of course, we were drawn to Jejudo Island because it embodies the idea of rest and relaxation, but truthfully, we were more curious about Busan¡¯s many faces beyond the beaches and tourism. I myself visit the coastal city every year and always feel like moving there whenever I go, so it is obvious that the port city 400 km south of Seoul has some kind of magnetic allure.

 

Each time I arrive at Busan Station and taxi to Haeundae to get settled in—I¡¯ve done this so many times I don¡¯t dare to even try to count—I find myself mesmerized by the landscape of the piers as I look out the car window. Not until rows of shipping containersand towering cranes catch my eyes do I feel like, ¡®Ah! Finally, I¡¯m in Busan.¡¯ It feels like passing through immigration. Maybe because of the unique layout of port cities, I have always assumed that Busan was bigger than Seoul. Maybe it is the impression that you can only get from the second- or the third-largest cities. Apparently, it is the norm that the nation¡¯s largest city—the capital city in an administrative and economic sense—naturally chases ideas like ¡°global standards¡± and ¡°cosmopolitanism.¡± Despite the never-ending changes inarchitecture, culture, and commercial districts that seem to pop up overnight, capital cities always feel rather mediocre when all things are said and done. That might explain why I have recently heard globe-trotters grumbling that there is nothing special out there. Everything is already in Seoul.

 

But Busan has staved off this rather imminent phenomenon of standardization. Of course, the city boasts a good number of flagship stores by globalbrands, inventive and fancy restaurants, and uniform- like styles that hipsters wear, but these elements

do not shape the visitor¡¯s impression of the city. Rather, Busan¡¯s cultural elements—embedded in the clothing, food, and architecture—forge a distinctive locality in its raw state, emerging through the cracks between the well-developed infrastructure that is essential for a big city to survive. The essence of Busan that B captured for this issue also centers on the people, the products, and the companies that add contemporary twists to local tradition. From Momos Coffee¡¯s Jooyeon Jeon, who triumphantly sprang up from the local specialty coffee scene and on to the global stage; and Balansa, a fashion brand whose contemporary chicness is no less superb than Seoul- born rivals; to Gentz Bakery, which strives to retaina sense of ¡°Koreanness.¡± All these players generated cultlike followings locally and received offers to expand to Seoul. (Usually, it happens the other way around.) In a city where not even one of Korea¡¯s top 100 companies has its headquarters, it is a feat thatlocally grown creativity translates to business acumen, resulting in phenomenal success.

 

The potential of Busan, I opine, lies with innovative small business owners, though they are wildly outnumbered by their counterparts in Seoul. Indeed, the Busanites B met say that the city¡¯s potential isin the hands of the people who grew up in Busan,far from Seoul and close to the door to the outside world. Busan has constantly grappled with internal and external forces due to its geographical position and historical events, like outsiders coming and going, refugees from the Korean War rushing in. Even still, it seems that Busan has the most fertile soil to cultivate new contemporary ideas. This may be why I as a land dweller, born and raised in Seoul, always envy people who live near water—and where they come together, in Busan.

 

Eunsung Park

 

Editor in Chief

 

 







 




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02 INTRO

 

08 EDITOR'S LETTER

 

12BUSAN FOLKS

Four Busanites talk about their precious memories and the port city¡¯s vibrant energy

 

18INTERVIEW

Jiman Park, CEO of Sammi Construction Co, Ltd. AndKitchenborie Co, Ltd. maximizes the aesthetic value of space through low-rise, horizontal landmarks

 

24HOMEGROWN TALENT

Key leaders in Busan¡¯s confectionary/ baking, coffee, eomuk fish cake, and beer industries who all share the spirit of friendly competition and are always open to new information and possibilities

 

42HISTORU OF LOCAL CUISINE

Old stores and local foods from the times of the Korean War and subsequent division of the peninsula

 

50INTERVIEW

Jeehoon Kim, owner of Balansa, says that the growth of Busan¡¯s street culture can be attributed to outside cultures andenthusiastic people who fully explore their fields of interest

 

56NEIGHBORHOOD

Four representative neighborhoods in Busan, which are home to an intriguing mix of the analog era and contemporary twists

 

72AROUND TOWN

Busan¡¯s appeal and different impressions of the port city from young people

 

80LEGEND MAKERS

Producers of steel, towels, and footwear that have served as the basis for Busan¡¯s manufacturing industry

 

96URBAN GETAWAYS

What to do in Busan, home to beautiful mountains, breathtaking beaches, and urban infrastructure

 

102STAYCATION

Four fancy Busan-based hotels offer exciting experiences and amenities based on the maritime city¡¯s abundant natural surroundings as well as rich historical and cultural elements

 

110BORN AND RAISED

BohyunAhn, an actor and television personality, and Winter, a member of the Korean girl group aespa, gush about their hometown

 

113THE WORLD EXPO IS COMING TO BUSAN, KOREA

World Expo 2030 Busan, a solutions-based platform that aims to tackle anarray of global issues, shapes the future of cities with tools for soft power

 

145GREETINGS FROM BUSAN

Made-in-Busan products that feature the active and lively spirit of Busan

 

156INTERVIEW

Haeju Kim, a senior curator at the Singapore Art Museum, says that multidimensional effort is needed to work is important to properly appreciate the multifaceted landscape of Busan, which is a combination of land waves created by geographical patterns and ocean waves

 

162ARTISTIC CITY

Art galleries, museums, and fairs that have enhanced the level of artistic and cultural sensibility of Busan

 

180YOUNG WAVE

Young artists who call Busan home are working to lay the foundation for their own unique, creative world

 

190INTERVIEW

Founder and CEO of Krypton Kyungjun Yang says that Busan is the optimal city for local startups, an emerging alternative to boost local economies, to digest outside cultures in their own ways

 

196THE AWAKENING GROUND

¡°New local¡± projects that rewrite the stories and values of the city while preserving the traces of the past

 

214CITY STORY

¡°New local¡± projects that rewrite the stories and values of the city while preserving the traces of the past

 

218FROM SEOUL TO BUSAN

Seoul-born fashion and beauty brands that incorporated Busan¡¯s locality into the design of their Busan-based outlets for a singular brand experience

 

222DIGEST

A look at Busan through numbers

 

233OUTRO


 














 







 

¡á Table of contents

 

02 INTRO

 

08 EDITOR'S LETTER

 

12GAME CHANGER

Media reactions at the time of Spotify¡¯s creation

 

16CRITICS

Changes in the music-listening environment as well as future music market prospects as told by three experts

 

20OPINION: GREG OGAN

Greg Ogan, associate professor at the Berklee College of Music and lead for diverse music projects, talks about the positive changes Spotify brought to the music industry

 

26VIBRANT OFFICE

Spotify¡¯s office environment as seen in its office in Stockholm, Sweden—the birthplace of the platform

 

32SPOTIFIERS

What 12 employees think of Spotify¡¯s fun and exciting in-house culture and atmosphere

 

36ESSENTIALS

Key features and services that show Spotify¡¯s core competencies as a music platform

 

42ADVANCEMENT

Innovative achievements of Spotify, which has quickly identified problems and come up with the best solutions

 

48CUSTOMIZATION

First impressions of Spotify¡¯s personalized recommendation services from after these new users used Spotify for two weeks

 

54THE FOUNDER: DANIEL EK

Spotify¡¯s DNA and vision are laid out in this interview with Spotify founder and CEO Daniel Ek

 

60BRAND STORY

The growth story of Spotify, which has become a vehicle through which users can truly discover and explore new music

 

66THROWBACK

Behind-the-scenes stories about Spotify¡¯s four early members who dreamed of democratizing music

 

70INTERVIEW

Spotify¡¯s key strategies and culture explained by Alex Norström (co-president and chief business officer), Katarina Berg (chief human resources officer), and Gustav Gyllenhammar (VP of the markets and subscriber growth team)

 

76NOTES

Music experts observe changes and phenomena on the Spotify platform

 

80MUSIC IS EVERYWHERE

Stories of four artists who use Spotify to experience music, communicate with fans, and conduct musical experiments

 

98 PLAYGROUND

Introducing Stream On, an in-person event that is a manifestation of Spotify¡¯s vision to become the optimal platform of choice for audio content creators

 

104AUDIO GENERATION

Spotify¡¯s practical measures that have helped establish the company as a comprehensive music platform as well as its signature podcasts and video programs

 

112OPINION: PUJA PATEL

Puja Patel, editor-in-chief of online music zine Pitchfork, talks about where the music industry should be headed

 

118MUSIC VOYAGERS

Meet Spotify users who have explored their own musical worlds with creative energy

 

126IN SPACE

Various spaces that use Spotify playlists to create unique identities

 

134IMPACT

Spotify¡¯s collaborations that cover all parts of life and its music programsthat are meant to increase and promote diversity

 

140DIGEST

Meaningful figures and info that show the brand¡¯s influence

 

143OUTRO


 














 







 

02 INTRO

 

08 EDITOR'S LETTER

 

12COUNTRY DWELLER

The bucolic lives of Barbour consumers who live at their own pace

 

22OPINION: VIRGINIA CHADWYCK- HEALEY

Stories of balanced fashion consumption told by Virginia Chadwyck-Healey, owner of VCH Style and stylist for Catherine, Princess of Wales

 

28WAY OF BARBOUR

Barbour¡¯s clothing, accessory, and shoe lines are efficiently planned and designed for contemporary life

 

38DIAGRAM

Analysis of Barbour¡¯s signature waxed jackets, which were created from a clear vision

 

46IN MY POCKET

What is in the pockets of the owners of Barbour waxed jackets

 

54BORN IN SOUTH SHIELDS

Barbour factory in the port city of South Shields—the brand¡¯s home ground and starting point

 

64FROM THE ARCHIVE

Originality as seen through the prototypes of the Barbour jacket archive

 

76OPINION: DAME MARGARET BARBOUR

Barbour¡¯s DNA and heritage told by Dame Margaret Barbour, the current chair

 

82ROOTED IN SCOTLAND

Halley Stevensons, producer of waxed cotton for Barbour, and Kinloch Anderson, designer of Barbour¡¯s own tartans

 

92RETAILS

Barbour styles told by Barbour design directors of men¡¯s and women¡¯s clothing as well as Barbour stores in the old neighbor-like areas of London, South Shields, and Edinburgh

 

100HAND TO HAND

Maintenance tips for Barbour jackets and Barbour Re-waxing & Re-loved services, which enable the jackets to be handed down over generations

 

106OPINION: JACK CARLSON

Jack Carlson, founder of Rowing Blazers, explains how to expand a brand¡¯s worldview through imaginative, out-of- the-box thinking

 

112CROSSOVER

Barbour shows its many sides through continuous collaborations with unique fashion brands

 

122FUNCTIONALIST

Practical fashion items from other brands that Barbour fans love

 

128 MY OWN BARBOUR

Barbour jackets as personal memory archives

 

136BRAND STORY

The growth of Barbour, a family business that has respected its heritage while nimbly responding to the trend of the times

142OLD CATALOGS

Barbour¡¯s old catalogs show the zeitgeist, culture, and various lifestyles of the past

 

146INTERVIEW

Barbour¡¯s key growth strategy and future plan as told by Managing Director Steve Buck, Global Marketing and Commercial Director Paul Wilkinson, and Vice Chair Helen Barbour

 

152SPOTLIGHT

Barbour products on celebrities and in the media

 

156FELLOWS

Brands that share keywords with Barbour like ¡°Royal Warrant,¡± ¡°waxed jacket,¡± and ¡°workwear and outdoor wear¡±

 

159OUTRO


 














 







 

¡á Table of contents

 

02 INTRO

 

08 EDITOR'S LETTER

 

12KEYWORDS

The Balvenie¡¯s philosophy as portrayed in media coverage

 

16SPEYSIDE

The region that The Balvenie calls home

 

22THE BALVENIE DISTILLERY

The epicenter where the Scottish whisky brand¡¯s nearly 130-year history began

 

26FROM CRAFT TO BALVENIE

The Balvenie¡¯s craftspeople who are committed to the brand¡¯s legacy of crafting top-quality whisky

 

48INTERVIEW: DAVID C. STEWART & KELSEY MCKECHNIE

The Balvenie malt masters, who are responsible for quality and taste control

 

54CHARACTERISTICS

The Balvenie¡¯s whisky lineup that expresses a storied experience and immense know-how along with a singular design language

 

62OPINION: STEPH MURRAY

Steph Murry, general manager at The Dowans Hotel, talks about the local whisky community in Speyside

 

68SPEYSIDE¡¯S MANNER

Bar culture in Speyside, the birthplace of single malts

 

76COEXIST IN MARKET

Diversity in the Scotch whisky market that spawns from micro-distinction during whisky making

 

84BAR SPIRITS

Bar scenes in Seoul, Saitama, London, and New York that present whisky cocktails in their own distinctive ways

 

96MANUALS

The basics of whisky

 

100 OPINION: HAEIN JUNG

Korean actor Haein Jung talks about charms of whisky and The Balvenie

 

106MY TASTE PAIRING

Whisky parings that reflect the taste of the drinker—from scents to artworks

 

116JUST MY SPIRIT

Diverse manifestations of whisky subcultures, such as collecting, sharing, and blending

 

120THE ELEMENTS

The five basic factors for whisky making

 

130BRAND STORY

The growth story of The Balvenie, which has pioneered in the market with its traditional batch production process and experimental spirit

 

136INTERVIEW: ALICE MCSHERRY, GEMMA PORTER

The Balvenie¡¯s global marketing manager Alice Mcsherry and global brand ambassador Gemma Porter talk about the brand¡¯s internal and external culture

 

140SHIFT IN GENERATIONS

Three next-generation employees expected to make history for The Balvenie

 

144ART OF CRAFT

The Balvenie¡¯s art projects that distill the brand¡¯s artisanal spirit

 

148DIGEST

Figures that demonstrate the prominence of The Balvenie and its parent company William Grant & Sons in the Scotch whisky industry

 

151OUTRO


 














 







 

¡á Table of contents

 

02 INTRO

 

08 EDITOR'S LETTER

 

12FOURTH WAVE

The new wave of coffee and % Arabica observed by coffee experts

 

16AESTHETIC

Aesthetic of Kyoto that inspired % Arabica founder Kenneth Shoji

 

22NEIGHBORHOOD

Introduction to Arashiyama and Higashiyama neighborhoods in Kyoto where % Arabica locations have become local attractions

 

28OPINION: KOBE LEE

% Arabica¡¯s Global Head Barista Kobe Lee talks about thebrand¡¯s philosophy on coffee and people management

 

34IDENTITY

% Arabica¡¯s minimal, timeless brand identity that is reflected in brand goods

 

40IN THE BAR

% Arabica¡¯s signature drinks and service

 

46AT THE ROASTERY

% Arabica Kyoto Roastery & Bakery, a control tower for an exquisite, quality cup of coffee

 

50INTERVIEW: KENNETH SHOJI

Conversation between Magazine B publisher Suyong Joh and % Arabica founder Kenneth Shoji

 

56A DAY WITH A COSMOPOLITE

Kenneth Shoji¡¯s cosmopolitan life in Bali

 

64CUPPING LAB

Luis Urcuyo, green bean buyer for% Arabica, shows his coffee cupping

 

68COFFEE FARMS IN BALI

Coffee farms in Batukaang Village, Bali, that supply specialty coffee beans to % Arabica

 

72WELLNESS SPACES IN BALI

Alchemy, a wellness brand in Bali that captured Kenneth Shoji¡¯s attention

 

76COFFEE TOOLS

Coffee tools used in % Arabica cafés to provide the best coffee experience

 

86MOMENT OF INNOVATION

Slayer Espresso, a game changer in the espresso machinemarket, and its founder Jason Prefontaine

 

94COFFEE BUFFERS

Coffee lovers from all walks of life, including cofounder of Deus ex Machina Dare Jennings, share their thoughts on % Arabica

 

102OPINION: KEITA AONO

Keita Aono, chief designer of space design consultancy No. 10, talks about % Arabica¡¯s space design philosophy

 

108ICONIC STORES

Design studios from different cultures and their iconic designs for % Arabica cafés

124SURROUNDINGS

Neighborhoods and nearby attractions in Seoul, New York, and London where% Arabica shops are located

 

130PARTNERS

% Arabica¡¯s franchise partners in Indonesia, China, and Korea that drive the brand¡¯s global business

 

136VISITORS

People from all around the world who visit % Arabica stores in Kyoto and Bali

 

142BRAND STORY

A story of % Arabica that started in Kyoto and has grown into a global coffee brand

148BEHIND THE BRAND

Some interesting facts about % Arabica, as presented by the brand¡¯s founder

 

150INTERVIEW: MAKOTO NAKAMURA, ERIKO MATSUDA

Makoto Nakamura, vice president of Asiamix Japan, supports % Arabica and Kenneth Shoji; Brand consultant Eriko Matsuda leads brand management

 

154TENANT

% Arabica kiosk locations show the brand¡¯s competitiveness

 

160UNDERDOGS

Coffee brands that started in cities with hardly any coffee culture and still gained an international following

 

163OUTRO


 













 







 

¡á Table of contents

 

02 INTRO

 

08 EDITOR'S LETTER

 

12 PERSONAL ARCHIVES

Hints of Christophe Lemaire and Sarah- Linh Tran¡¯s creativity found in their work spaces

 

20 IN MARAIS

The Lemaire headquarters blends into the Marais, a historic district in Paris

 

24 SMALL TALK

People at Lemaire affirm their personal beliefs about clothing and the brand¡¯s unwavering trajectory

 

32 INTERVIEW: CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE & SARAH-LINH TRAN

Co-creative directors of Lemaire

 

38 ON-SITE WORKSHOP

Lemaire¡¯s in-house atelier materializes the brand¡¯s design universe

 

42 LEMAIRE WARDROBE

Lemaire¡¯s iconic style imbues the brand¡¯s shirts, jackets, overcoats, and other essential items

 

48 UNDERSTATEMENT

Delicate design language expressed through colors, materials, silhouettes, and other details

 

58 OPINION: ANJA ARONOWSKY CRONBERG

Fashion journalist Anja Aronowsky Cronberg attests that Lemaire provides physical and mental comfort through its clothes

 

64 DEFINITE

The unique perspectives of Lemaire brand fans who refuse to compare themselves with others

 

88 AT THE BOUTIQUE

Lemaire boutiques reflect the brand¡¯s comfortable and calm mood

 

92 CRAFT PARTNERS

The brand expands its aesthetic domain through ingenious partnerships with artisans and artists

 

102 OPINION: SONYA DYAKOVA

Graphic designer Sonya Dyakova says that the allure of Lemaire is that it has created its own narrative by incorporating cultural elements in fashion

 

108 IN THE COLLECTIONS

Impressive Lemaire collections created in collaboration with outside creators

 

122 INDIVIDUALS

Strong personalities who have appeared on Lemaire runways

 

128 ESSAYS

Thoughts on the charms of Lemaire as everyday wear that is anything but mundane

 

131 AN OPTICAL POEM

Lemaire¡¯s color palette reflects light, shadow, and nature

 

140 BRAND STORY

How Lemaire grew while concentrating on creating styles rather than fashion

 

150 INSPIRATIONS

Music, films, books, and architecture that inspire the Lemaire designer duo

 

155 OUTRO


 














 



[ºê·£µå´ÙÅ¥¸àÅ͸®] BUSAN (¿µ¹®)

  2023³â 09¿ù



Back
in 2018, when B revisited Seoul, the capital city of Korea, to put out a second
edition, we talked about what city would be the best for the city issue besides
Seoul. Many of our editors—including me—thought of Busan, the second largest
city in Korea, and Jejudo Island for its breathtaking natural landscapes. Five
years later, we wound up doing an issue that features Busan. Of course, we were
drawn to Jejudo Island because it embodies the idea of rest and relaxation, but
truthfully, we were more curious about Busan¡¯s many faces beyond the beaches
and tourism. I myself visit the coastal city every year and always feel like
moving there whenever I go, so it is obvious that the port city 400 km south of
Seoul has some kind of magnetic allure.



 



Each
time I arrive at Busan Station and taxi to Haeundae to get settled in—I¡¯ve done
this so many times I don¡¯t dare to even try to count—I find myself mesmerized
by the landscape of the piers as I look out the car window. Not until rows of
shipping containersand towering cranes catch my eyes do I feel like, ¡®Ah!
Finally, I¡¯m in Busan.¡¯ It feels like passing through immigration. Maybe
because of the unique layout of port cities, I have always assumed that Busan
was bigger than Seoul. Maybe it is the impression that you can only get from
the second- or the third-largest cities. Apparently, it is the norm that the
nation¡¯s largest city—the capital city in an administrative and economic
sense—naturally chases ideas like ¡°global standards¡± and ¡°cosmopolitanism.¡±
Despite the never-ending changes inarchitecture, culture, and commercial
districts that seem to pop up overnight, capital cities always feel rather
mediocre when all things are said and done. That might explain why I have
recently heard globe-trotters grumbling that there is nothing special out
there. Everything is already in Seoul.



 



But
Busan has staved off this rather imminent phenomenon of standardization. Of
course, the city boasts a good number of flagship stores by globalbrands, inventive
and fancy restaurants, and uniform- like styles that hipsters wear, but these
elements



do
not shape the visitor¡¯s impression of the city. Rather, Busan¡¯s cultural
elements—embedded in the clothing, food, and architecture—forge a distinctive
locality in its raw state, emerging through the cracks between the
well-developed infrastructure that is essential for a big city to survive. The
essence of Busan that B captured for this issue also centers on the people, the
products, and the companies that add contemporary twists to local tradition.
From Momos Coffee¡¯s Jooyeon Jeon, who triumphantly sprang up from the local
specialty coffee scene and on to the global stage; and Balansa, a fashion brand
whose contemporary chicness is no less superb than Seoul- born rivals; to Gentz
Bakery, which strives to retaina sense of ¡°Koreanness.¡± All these players
generated cultlike followings locally and received offers to expand to Seoul.
(Usually, it happens the other way around.) In a city where not even one of
Korea¡¯s top 100 companies has its headquarters, it is a feat thatlocally grown
creativity translates to business acumen, resulting in phenomenal success.



 



The
potential of Busan, I opine, lies with innovative small business owners, though
they are wildly outnumbered by their counterparts in Seoul. Indeed, the
Busanites B met say that the city¡¯s potential isin the hands of the people who
grew up in Busan,far from Seoul and close to the door to the outside world.
Busan has constantly grappled with internal and external forces due to its
geographical position and historical events, like outsiders coming and going,
refugees from the Korean War rushing in. Even still, it seems that Busan has
the most fertile soil to cultivate new contemporary ideas. This may be why I as
a land dweller, born and raised in Seoul, always envy people who live near
water—and where they come together, in Busan.














 





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